AT notes #4: Standing Bear Farm to Roan Mt.
In an attempt to reduce unecessary weight I removed the straps from my hiking poles. Without the straps, the pressure through my stride focused on my palms resulting in some gnarly,dog- pad blisters.
The woods ascending from Standing Bear were alive with color. Here the dogwoods whiten the sky.
The day was hot. My feet blistered from the battering I'd dealt them coming down from the high ridges of the Smokies now required frequent rest.At some point in the day I passed this FAA communications tower that emitted a very secretive vibe.I decided not to take a picture and leave it be. From that point I focused on my walk and dug deeply as water was scarce,the sun bright, and my body fatigued.
Plodding on I continously thought Max Patch was only just over the next hill. No Max Patch, no water. Memories flooded back. I never felt alone in the brown and green wilderness I walked amongst, as I was surrounded by friends, writings, dreams, and animals.
It was evening when I reached the road before the path up the mountain. A young couple from Asheville waited there for thru-hikers with a car full of trail magic: chicken salad, doritos, oreos, and gatorade! I dove into the food trying to remain conversational. It seemed some of the food came from the same natural food store I worked at. We spoke about Asheville,and their hike a few years back on the AT. They planned to hike the PCT in 2007, I guess that'd be this spring--good luck to them.
I reached the top an hour later to sit with hikers and gaze at the sun settling down among the land we'd just crossed. The previous 250 miles I'd longed to reach this spot and gaze on the 360 view of my home, and rest in the soft grasses, kissed with sweet winds.
I wanted to sleep on top that night, just me and the stars--no tarp. But I decided to hike down a little to avoid the stirring winds. I slept on the verge of the forest still on the bald of the mountain. I woke later that night due to the brightness in the sky--the moon was near full and the sky clear. Gently the wind swayed and I slept enchanted.
4-17
I passed through strange lands atop Walnut Mt, the hillside filled with burned and felled trees--denuded in an apparent attempt to restore it to its bald mountain past. Bald mountains are said to be the creation of the grazing stock ofEuropeans, or countless other theories. Regardless, their state as a natural habitat is quite contentious. The forest service cuts the grass and brush to maintain bald mountains for the lore they create. My feeling is that they are the highlight of hiking in the southern highlands and speak of some past of uncertain age.
At the shelter at Walnut Mt, I found one of the treasures left by Southpaw and Beamis (met in Southern NC). There they had told us they photocopied pictures of David Hasselhoff from a calendar and distributed them from Hot Springs south. They attached Hasselhoff hiking tips with each picture.These pictures were things of brilliance with the world's most popular tv star sitting in his car or flexing on the beach.I wish I had photoed these for later viewing. They still exist in shelter logs somewhere.
Finally in Hot Springs I walked the streets with a stride that bespoke my familiarity with the place. I picked up my mail, sent some cold weather gear home, and prepared for the warmer temps ahead. After a meal at the Paddler's Pub I called Mark at Harvest records to pick me up.
We drove to Asheville with Gillian Welch strumming in the speakers, the same album I'd sung the previous day.
4-20
After they left I struggled walking into certain rain and lightning when I could have gone back to the comforts of Asheville. But I knew I must.
I'd hiked a small portion of the trail leading north out of Hot Springs with Josh, Matt, and Mark, when Josh had visited on his drive cross-country, so I knew it was a steep jump. I settled in the for the climb and awaited new ground. After reaching Lovers Leap Rock I found a lazy pond surrounded by a gentle wood. I walked up a road for a way and spotted the greenest trees and fields--spring needed these rains to produce such verdant light.
About an hour later rain and thunder came. I put on my poncho, looked down and plodded on as the fury in the sky threatened again closer and closer.I found the shelter full: bad news with steady rain settling in. Walking a little beyond the shelter I found a flat spot to call home and quickly set camp and started dinner.
The day that followed was exceedingly rainy and windy. I fought with my flagging poncho most of the day and fully realized its limitations. Without thunder in many hours I decided to hike the trail over an exposed ridgeline when a blue-blazed trail for inclement weather was available. Realizing how exposed I was atop the rocky spine cutting in the belly of the clouds I began to panic. The trail became sharp and unforgiving boulders. I tried to gain a sense of how long I'd be exposed as I began to hear thunder again. I was a lightning rod, the tallest thing on a ridge for an unseeable distance. Clambering forward for what seemed miles, the trail finally sheltered me under trees. I moved with adrenaline and didn't stop.
With a little break in the rain I found another shelter full of hikers. I was hoping to sleep there, but I had to continue another 6 miles to Flint Mtn; I'd heard more rain was on the way so I intended to sleep under roof tonight. Climbing over foggy meadows and steeply descending old roads I made it to Flint Mt just before a rush of hikers came looking for the same shelter from the night's storm as I.
That night brought torrential downpours and deafening thunder.I slept easily after the lightning ended, with gliding rain making the air more peaceful afterwards.
4-22
I was elated to see the river from the high ridge I'd hiked so many times wondering when I'd hike the Appalachian Trail. I'd been up there in the winter, summer, and fall. Throughout last year I realized just how much creative power we have over our lives.: all that I'd endlessly hoped for happened quite effortlessly.
When I saw Mark's (Heather's Dad) truck pull up I couldn't restrain the happiness I had to see Heather's family after 3 months.
4-24/ 4-27
For the final 2 days I stayed with my doctor's family. Colleen, my doc and great friend, helped ease a lot of the leg pain I was experiencing from pushing so hard to get to town. I got to spend time with their new son, Kieren, that she and Michelle had adopted just before I moved. I had a blast with them as there family is so full of love and laughter. Also their other son, Kevin, was now talking a lot and becoming so animated.
I had planned on leaving their house after one day, but rains came the following morning. They were happy to have me another night and I definitely obliged.
The next day I had a great conversation with Colleen about some of things I'd learned from my long, meditative walking. She's a dear friend and with love I said goodbye as she dropped me off in Erwin.
I set off across the bridge over the Nolichucky River ready to begin the next phase of my hike, now that I would likely be without friends and family to visit. About halfway across the bridge I hear, "Hey Banshee, where do you think you're going?" There was my hiking family all together again. Continually, I was amazed at how we hikers communicated and connected on this path--and how easy it all was.
I joined them as Miss Janet, the owner of the hostel in Erwin, drove us 20 miles north for a slackpack of the section over Unaka Mt. and Beauty Spot, again familiar ground. We left our bags in the truck and set off in the hills heading south for Erwin to spend the night at the infamous Miss Janet's House.
We had a spectacularly beautiful time over the day's hike. With all of the rain the final miles of the trail were made into a river which I splashed through reluctantly at first and then I took to it with all of the abandon I would at age 5. As we waited for our ride into Erwin at day's end my feet were quite cold, and beaten.
I slept out on the porch with a couple other hikers. It was strange to spend more time in this town now then I ever did when it was just 15 minutes away. Tomorrow we'd drive up to Iron Gap (where we started south yesterday) and hike north to the Roan highlands--one of my favorite stretches of the trail in TN/NC. In the past I'd driven up to the nearly 6000 ft where the road passes between Roan Mt. and Round Bald, but today I'd get to walk the 2000 ft+ ascent--probably the last big climb until New England.
The Circus, as we were now dubbed, stopped by the dollar store to pick up items befitting our playful band of misfits. We found kites, streamers, stuffed animals, water guns, and other gaudy circus gear.
The hike up was arduous. I knew it'd be tough, but I felt every step as a swinging bat to my heel. I had no idea were this foot pain came from and passed it off as fatigue from two consecutively long days after 4 days off. I started out fast,but eventually lost everyone as they passed ahead-- I was missing something. I pushed on to try to save any built momentum as the climb seemed near vertical for miles and right at the end of the day when energy is low.
Reaching Roan was a great relief to me and I could hardly celebrate when I reunited with my circus at the shelter. A few had hiked to a friendly cabin to buy some beer and hitch up to Roan. They were there drinking beers and I took one feeling like I needed to celebrate a huge victory, but I was shot and dehydrated and the thought of drinking made me nauseous.
I went to bed after a meal and lots of water. Roan Mt Shelter is the highest on the AT at 6825' and it was cold enough to prove it. I went to bed looking forward to the day's walk tomorrow over my beloved highlands. I'd already walked this entire section and knew what to expect, especially on a clear and sunny day that we were in store for.
4-16
I left my friends at Standing Bear Farm for familiar ground. The trail from here would gradually lead to Max Patch Mt. When I first moved to Asheville this was the place people told me to see. The bald mountain lore is rich with stories telling of their magnetism and energy: this place became home. I traveled there with Matt,Katy, and Mark--my closest friends in Asheville. Eventually after I met Heather, we took trips up there to take naps on top of the huge grassy expanse and look up into infinite blue.It is a magical place. For it's personal significance I was glad to hike there alone.
The woods ascending from Standing Bear were alive with color. Here the dogwoods whiten the sky.
The day was hot. My feet blistered from the battering I'd dealt them coming down from the high ridges of the Smokies now required frequent rest.At some point in the day I passed this FAA communications tower that emitted a very secretive vibe.I decided not to take a picture and leave it be. From that point I focused on my walk and dug deeply as water was scarce,the sun bright, and my body fatigued.
Plodding on I continously thought Max Patch was only just over the next hill. No Max Patch, no water. Memories flooded back. I never felt alone in the brown and green wilderness I walked amongst, as I was surrounded by friends, writings, dreams, and animals.
It was evening when I reached the road before the path up the mountain. A young couple from Asheville waited there for thru-hikers with a car full of trail magic: chicken salad, doritos, oreos, and gatorade! I dove into the food trying to remain conversational. It seemed some of the food came from the same natural food store I worked at. We spoke about Asheville,and their hike a few years back on the AT. They planned to hike the PCT in 2007, I guess that'd be this spring--good luck to them.
I reached the top an hour later to sit with hikers and gaze at the sun settling down among the land we'd just crossed. The previous 250 miles I'd longed to reach this spot and gaze on the 360 view of my home, and rest in the soft grasses, kissed with sweet winds.
I wanted to sleep on top that night, just me and the stars--no tarp. But I decided to hike down a little to avoid the stirring winds. I slept on the verge of the forest still on the bald of the mountain. I woke later that night due to the brightness in the sky--the moon was near full and the sky clear. Gently the wind swayed and I slept enchanted.
4-17
Today I knew I'd see Asheville again, and all my friends there. I was now a day's walk from Hot Springs, which was a short drive from Asheville. I practically ran the 20 miles down to Hot Springs for the good times that awaited me.
I passed through strange lands atop Walnut Mt, the hillside filled with burned and felled trees--denuded in an apparent attempt to restore it to its bald mountain past. Bald mountains are said to be the creation of the grazing stock ofEuropeans, or countless other theories. Regardless, their state as a natural habitat is quite contentious. The forest service cuts the grass and brush to maintain bald mountains for the lore they create. My feeling is that they are the highlight of hiking in the southern highlands and speak of some past of uncertain age.
At the shelter at Walnut Mt, I found one of the treasures left by Southpaw and Beamis (met in Southern NC). There they had told us they photocopied pictures of David Hasselhoff from a calendar and distributed them from Hot Springs south. They attached Hasselhoff hiking tips with each picture.These pictures were things of brilliance with the world's most popular tv star sitting in his car or flexing on the beach.I wish I had photoed these for later viewing. They still exist in shelter logs somewhere.
Finally in Hot Springs I walked the streets with a stride that bespoke my familiarity with the place. I picked up my mail, sent some cold weather gear home, and prepared for the warmer temps ahead. After a meal at the Paddler's Pub I called Mark at Harvest records to pick me up.
We drove to Asheville with Gillian Welch strumming in the speakers, the same album I'd sung the previous day.
4-20
After 2+ days in Asheville resting and hanging out with Matt and Mark, I needed to get back to hiking. I was also wondering about my friends who I'd left 5 days ago. I left a message for them in Hot Springs and I expected we might meet there. Sure enough as I strolled out of town after Mark dropped me off, I saw some figures that looked friendly. I walked over and reunited with my walking family. The reunion was short-lived as they intended to travel to Asheville for a show, while was ready to hike again. We played wiffle ball and soaked in the hot springs along the French Broad River. As we soaked I dreaded walking in the hills now covered in thunderheads: rain was coming.
After they left I struggled walking into certain rain and lightning when I could have gone back to the comforts of Asheville. But I knew I must.
I'd hiked a small portion of the trail leading north out of Hot Springs with Josh, Matt, and Mark, when Josh had visited on his drive cross-country, so I knew it was a steep jump. I settled in the for the climb and awaited new ground. After reaching Lovers Leap Rock I found a lazy pond surrounded by a gentle wood. I walked up a road for a way and spotted the greenest trees and fields--spring needed these rains to produce such verdant light.
About an hour later rain and thunder came. I put on my poncho, looked down and plodded on as the fury in the sky threatened again closer and closer.I found the shelter full: bad news with steady rain settling in. Walking a little beyond the shelter I found a flat spot to call home and quickly set camp and started dinner.
4-21
Early rains came. Today was the first time I awoke to rain and thus first time I was confronted with the decision to leave warmth and dry for cold and wet.I set off slowly and came to enjoy the thick fog of the Appachian spring rains. I had certainly expected them, but had 3 weeks of dry, sunny conditions from the start.
The day that followed was exceedingly rainy and windy. I fought with my flagging poncho most of the day and fully realized its limitations. Without thunder in many hours I decided to hike the trail over an exposed ridgeline when a blue-blazed trail for inclement weather was available. Realizing how exposed I was atop the rocky spine cutting in the belly of the clouds I began to panic. The trail became sharp and unforgiving boulders. I tried to gain a sense of how long I'd be exposed as I began to hear thunder again. I was a lightning rod, the tallest thing on a ridge for an unseeable distance. Clambering forward for what seemed miles, the trail finally sheltered me under trees. I moved with adrenaline and didn't stop.
With a little break in the rain I found another shelter full of hikers. I was hoping to sleep there, but I had to continue another 6 miles to Flint Mtn; I'd heard more rain was on the way so I intended to sleep under roof tonight. Climbing over foggy meadows and steeply descending old roads I made it to Flint Mt just before a rush of hikers came looking for the same shelter from the night's storm as I.
That night brought torrential downpours and deafening thunder.I slept easily after the lightning ended, with gliding rain making the air more peaceful afterwards.
4-22
I decided, now less than 2 days from Erwin (the gateway to Johnson City--my old home with friends waiting to feed me) that I'd make a long day in the rain in order to have a short 2nd day to Erwin. After the first road crossing that morning I found myself hiking along a cascading river. Crossing this many times I was deep in a hollow that was filled with relics of an old homestead and school. I saw the carcass of a truck and the beaten wooden structure of a barn. Along this stretch of trail yesterday and today I came across several cemeteries and memorials. With the rain these landscapes gave me the sense that I should not idle there, but swiftly continue on. 
Miles north I started to walk on a part of the trail I'd hiked with Heather. When I moved to Asheville I bought the maps for the sections of the AT from Max Patch north to the TN/VA line. Eventually I'd used these to find all the trail heads during my residence in Johnson City and hike as much as a night's camp or dayhike would allow. Heather joined me on a number of these hikes and I prepared to feel her presence in the woods and miss her more vividly.
The day became a grey blur as I splashed and splattered through miles of saturated land. Eventually I crossed Sam's Gap where I-26 passes through the mountains, the route between Asheville and Johnson City. I looked forward to the new terrain just as much as the familiar. I seemed to rush through this landscape and eventually slipped on some mud and fell straight down on my back. Usually when I stubbed a toe or rolled an ankle it was because I wasn't being present, indeed it always woke me up.
I pulled myself up and realized I was atop Big Bald Mt with a beautiful shrouded vista. From there I gingerly ambled on through the many miles of wide, grassy ridge before me. Finding myself at my destination early I decided to push on, knowing the trail desceded without any sharp features from here to Spivey Gap. The last mile was a complete struggle to remain vertical. I ate a candy bar to gain some last energy push as my tight leg muscles resisted anything further. The way down from Big Bald was an endless muddy bogg. I'd loved it.
I took great care to document the muddin' I'd done. The pictures don't really encompass that satisfied feeling you get after running through mud unabashed for hours. Anyways I knew a shower awaited me as soon as I reached Erwin where I could call Heather's very generous parents for some hospitality.
After a brilliant night at a picturesque meadow campsite I prepared for a short 11 miles to Erwin. The rain had stopped and the sun began to shimmer.
I'd hiked just about all of this section before, but some of it seemed different for whatever reason-- distance actually seemed to stretch in parts. At the midpoint I came across a shelter. I looked at the log book to see if familiar hikers would be in town.I found some names and read their stories and moved on to the Nolichucky River. I left a message for my friends about my struggles in the rains and about my plans in Johnson City.
(The Nolichucky River with a train crossing the bridge)
Miles north I started to walk on a part of the trail I'd hiked with Heather. When I moved to Asheville I bought the maps for the sections of the AT from Max Patch north to the TN/VA line. Eventually I'd used these to find all the trail heads during my residence in Johnson City and hike as much as a night's camp or dayhike would allow. Heather joined me on a number of these hikes and I prepared to feel her presence in the woods and miss her more vividly.
The day became a grey blur as I splashed and splattered through miles of saturated land. Eventually I crossed Sam's Gap where I-26 passes through the mountains, the route between Asheville and Johnson City. I looked forward to the new terrain just as much as the familiar. I seemed to rush through this landscape and eventually slipped on some mud and fell straight down on my back. Usually when I stubbed a toe or rolled an ankle it was because I wasn't being present, indeed it always woke me up.
I pulled myself up and realized I was atop Big Bald Mt with a beautiful shrouded vista. From there I gingerly ambled on through the many miles of wide, grassy ridge before me. Finding myself at my destination early I decided to push on, knowing the trail desceded without any sharp features from here to Spivey Gap. The last mile was a complete struggle to remain vertical. I ate a candy bar to gain some last energy push as my tight leg muscles resisted anything further. The way down from Big Bald was an endless muddy bogg. I'd loved it.
I took great care to document the muddin' I'd done. The pictures don't really encompass that satisfied feeling you get after running through mud unabashed for hours. Anyways I knew a shower awaited me as soon as I reached Erwin where I could call Heather's very generous parents for some hospitality.
4-23
After a brilliant night at a picturesque meadow campsite I prepared for a short 11 miles to Erwin. The rain had stopped and the sun began to shimmer.
I'd hiked just about all of this section before, but some of it seemed different for whatever reason-- distance actually seemed to stretch in parts. At the midpoint I came across a shelter. I looked at the log book to see if familiar hikers would be in town.I found some names and read their stories and moved on to the Nolichucky River. I left a message for my friends about my struggles in the rains and about my plans in Johnson City.
(The Nolichucky River with a train crossing the bridge)I was elated to see the river from the high ridge I'd hiked so many times wondering when I'd hike the Appalachian Trail. I'd been up there in the winter, summer, and fall. Throughout last year I realized just how much creative power we have over our lives.: all that I'd endlessly hoped for happened quite effortlessly.
When I saw Mark's (Heather's Dad) truck pull up I couldn't restrain the happiness I had to see Heather's family after 3 months.
4-24/ 4-27
I spent 2 days with Heather's parents and animals. Her mother cooked my favorite meals and I shared with them my experiences as best I could. Later that week she was planning to go for a work-related hiking trip to Mt. Leconte in the Smokies, so I tried to offer my seasoned assessment of necessary gear. My time there was extremely relaxing and healing.
For the final 2 days I stayed with my doctor's family. Colleen, my doc and great friend, helped ease a lot of the leg pain I was experiencing from pushing so hard to get to town. I got to spend time with their new son, Kieren, that she and Michelle had adopted just before I moved. I had a blast with them as there family is so full of love and laughter. Also their other son, Kevin, was now talking a lot and becoming so animated.
I had planned on leaving their house after one day, but rains came the following morning. They were happy to have me another night and I definitely obliged.
The next day I had a great conversation with Colleen about some of things I'd learned from my long, meditative walking. She's a dear friend and with love I said goodbye as she dropped me off in Erwin.
I set off across the bridge over the Nolichucky River ready to begin the next phase of my hike, now that I would likely be without friends and family to visit. About halfway across the bridge I hear, "Hey Banshee, where do you think you're going?" There was my hiking family all together again. Continually, I was amazed at how we hikers communicated and connected on this path--and how easy it all was.
I joined them as Miss Janet, the owner of the hostel in Erwin, drove us 20 miles north for a slackpack of the section over Unaka Mt. and Beauty Spot, again familiar ground. We left our bags in the truck and set off in the hills heading south for Erwin to spend the night at the infamous Miss Janet's House.
We had a spectacularly beautiful time over the day's hike. With all of the rain the final miles of the trail were made into a river which I splashed through reluctantly at first and then I took to it with all of the abandon I would at age 5. As we waited for our ride into Erwin at day's end my feet were quite cold, and beaten.
I slept out on the porch with a couple other hikers. It was strange to spend more time in this town now then I ever did when it was just 15 minutes away. Tomorrow we'd drive up to Iron Gap (where we started south yesterday) and hike north to the Roan highlands--one of my favorite stretches of the trail in TN/NC. In the past I'd driven up to the nearly 6000 ft where the road passes between Roan Mt. and Round Bald, but today I'd get to walk the 2000 ft+ ascent--probably the last big climb until New England.
The Circus, as we were now dubbed, stopped by the dollar store to pick up items befitting our playful band of misfits. We found kites, streamers, stuffed animals, water guns, and other gaudy circus gear.
The hike up was arduous. I knew it'd be tough, but I felt every step as a swinging bat to my heel. I had no idea were this foot pain came from and passed it off as fatigue from two consecutively long days after 4 days off. I started out fast,but eventually lost everyone as they passed ahead-- I was missing something. I pushed on to try to save any built momentum as the climb seemed near vertical for miles and right at the end of the day when energy is low.
Reaching Roan was a great relief to me and I could hardly celebrate when I reunited with my circus at the shelter. A few had hiked to a friendly cabin to buy some beer and hitch up to Roan. They were there drinking beers and I took one feeling like I needed to celebrate a huge victory, but I was shot and dehydrated and the thought of drinking made me nauseous.
I went to bed after a meal and lots of water. Roan Mt Shelter is the highest on the AT at 6825' and it was cold enough to prove it. I went to bed looking forward to the day's walk tomorrow over my beloved highlands. I'd already walked this entire section and knew what to expect, especially on a clear and sunny day that we were in store for.
(Charley and Outlaw eating breakfast at Roan Mt Shelter)
posted by Bryan Hoofnagle at 11:09 AM
2 Comments:
You have no idea how much i enjoy reading about your time on the trail. it was nice being reminded of Hot Springs, NC as well. thanks for putting up a new post. is the majority of this from notes you made while hiking or from memory?
The CO hot springs look great too. A 4-dayer, eh? with promises of warm water at the end? count me in...
for the early part of the hike i had a lot of notes i'd made while hiking and so the stuff published was a combination of journal and memory.
for the middle i didn't write very much, but still took brief notes about weather, emotion, or bright characteritics.
this next and final entry will derive mostly from notes written at the time.
it's important for me to get all of this out and it makes it all the more to have it spark nostalgia or love in someone else.
4-dayer will likely take us from a set of lakes, very swim-worthy, along the collegiate peaks (13-14 thousand ft peaks) and ending at a hot spring. I'll give you more details as the plan takes shape.
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